what brand of mando is it? is it worth the cost of a complex repair?
did you measure the nut-12 interval and compare to 12-saddle interval? are they even close? are the wear patches under the bridge all over the place or neat and defined? make sure the bridge is correctly located and see how it plays, hosw the client. given the cost of fb replacement before contemplating fb replacement i would make sure the bridge is located correctly and ascertain whether the client is satisfied given the cost of the alternative.
re your measurement of the interfret intervals i'm not sure i understand exctly what you did, but given the configuration of the measuring faces on a dial or digital caliper i think the best method for nut - 1st is to measure fb face of nut to nut face of 1st and add .5*fret crown width. should be 0.782 for a 13.9 scale length. for the others is to measure from nut side of 2d-bridge side of 3d, and then subtract 1*fret width, hopefully giving 0.738. is this what you meant?
re removal of neck; unless it needs to be reset for some reason there is no obvious reason to do so and i would try to avoid it. the fb can be removed using the methods for a guitar fb, though you might find that the fingerboard extension support block loosens and needs to be reglued, and finish touch up will be necessary for cosmetic purposes.
if it is one of the asian clones touch up will not be fun and the cost of doing a mando fb is more than an acoustic guitar board as there are up to 30% more frets.
let me know how the bridge location exercise goes.
michaelcrazymanmichael38469.8312615741
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